So, you just had your new board waxed, and people are still passing you on the flats. What the hell? All bases are not created equal, and which type you have can drastically dictate your top speed.
There are two basic types of bases, sintered and extruded. These are basically sheets of p-tex several millimeters thick that constitute the bottom of your board. Both are available in various densities/ hardness, and are porous to absorb wax.
Extruded: The less expensive of the two. This will be on a board designed for someone starting out, or a very casual rider not looking for high performance, or someone who wants a very low maintenance board. Think of an extruded base as coming from a block of p-tex, and a thin layer is sliced off, making the base. Imagine a cheese slicer. These bases are usually found on lower end boards, usually the under $400 categories. While an extruded base is not designed for speed, it is easy to repair and requires less maintenance, making it appealing for entry level boards and many jib- specific models.
Sintered: Ok, take that sheet of p-tex and slice it lengthwise, making long spaghetti strings of p-tex. Now compress them back together into a sheet for the base. In a nutshell, that is a sintered base. This process makes them harder (higher density= faster) and more porous (better wax absorption) than its extruded little brother. Not surprisingly, this raises the price of the board. Most board with sintered bases start at $400 or so. Any board considered a "high performance" model will have a sintered base.
How hard is it? Like I said, both sintered and extruded bases come in different densities/ hardness. The harder the base, the faster it will run. A softer base, while more susceptible to damage, is also easier to repair. Most companies use a number system to indicate the hardness of the base: the larger the number, the harder the base. An extruded 1500 base is much softer than, say, a sintered 4000 base. If you had two identical boards, but with those two different bases on them, the sintered one would run much faster.
A Few Extras
There are many things that companies can add to the base to make them faster. Bases with graphite built into them are among the most common. Basically, during the sintering process, graphite is added, to reduce friction and increase speed. A wax impregnated base, like it sounds, has wax built in. This allows future waxings to bond better with the base, which not only speeds things up, but you won't need to wax quite as often. Another benefit of the wax infused base is that it adds density to the base, making it harder as well. Some other exotic sounding stuff you'll find in higher- end boards; gallium, indium, Teflon, zeolit. Sounds tech? It is, but basically all these things serve one purpose, reduce friction to improve your glide; go faster!
Lastly....
If you don't know the importance of waxing, check out my other posts! Waxing makes a HUGE difference in how fast your base will be. Again, an extruded base does not absorb a ton of wax, so it is not as noticeable as a sintered base, but a good wax job on a high end sintered base is a wonderful thing! No more getting stuck on the flats, no problem getting enough speed for that 50 foot kicker, no more getting passed by 9 year olds in ski school..... it's on!
Monday, February 22, 2010
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Can You See the Light? Or, What's Up With Goggles?
Sure, you gotta look steezy, but wouldn't it rule if your goggles actually helped you see BETTER? First, let's talk about the actual goggles; we'll get into lenses in a bit. Goggles come in a ton of sizes and shapes, mostly so that one will fit that weird, gourd shaped head of yours, so try as many on as you need to find a good fit. They should be comfortable, of course, and the foam should create a seal around your face. Gaps are not good. Pay special attention to the fit around the nose, as this is where most people have problems. Speaking of foam, the better goggles have two or three layers of foam for comfort, usually with fleece against the skin. If you sweat a lot, are sensitive to foam, or are looking for maximum comfort, look for this feature. If you do sweat a lot, get the largest goggle that fits your face; the more air around your eyes, the less likely fogging will occur. Another fog preventer is venting. Check to see if the frame has foam or mesh vents on all sides of the frame.
The Lens: There are two types of lenses.
1. Cylindrical. This is the traditional shape that curves around the face from ear to ear.
2. Spherical. This is the newer style. Like a sphere, it curves around the round shape of the eye, in all directions. This causes less distortion looking through the lens, as well as creating more air space inside, which helps reduce fogging. Also, more expensive.
Any decent goggle (say, over $40 or so) will have a dual lens. If you look at the goggle closely, you will see that there are two lenses in front of your eyes, a few millimeters apart. This is to help prevent fogging. You do not want a single lens goggle. Believe me.
Lenses come in many different colors, and that's not just for matching outfits, really! Mirrored lenses cut glare in the sunlight, help with the lurk factor since nobody can see your eyes, and look cool, but generally do not work well in low or flat light conditions (cloudy, snowing, nighttime). For bright, sunny days, obviously a darker tinted lens is nice. Something that lets in 15% to 30% of the light. For an all around tint, usually the 25%- 50% range will work, depending on what your weather is usually like. A good range for stormy, flat light conditions is 50%- 85%. This is usually a little too bright for sunny days. At this point, you might be thinking that it would be a good idea to have two pairs of goggles, or at least an extra lens. Extra lens? Yup, if you didn't know, most higher end goggles have lenses that can be replaced.
Lens Tints. Believe it or not, a different color lens can have a huge impact on your ability to see, especially in the shade, snow, fog, or other low or flat light situations.
Sunny/ Bright Light. Brown, bronze, and gray are great for very sunny days, and a mirror will help cut the glare.
Night Riding. Clear, yellow, light rose, light persimmon, light orange. These colors help add definition to the snow, making it easier to spot dips and bumps, along with generally adding to depth perception.
Cloudy, Snowing. This is probably the most important one. You can't see the ground, the bumps, anything. I find a rose tint to give me the most definition, but persimmon and orange are good too. No mirrored coatings are needed here. A medium darkness tint (say 30%-50%) should give you a good all-in-one lens if you are only going with one lens. This will make visibility pretty good in most conditions.
What the hell? So, based on this info, you should be able to find the perfect goggle/ goggles for you. Need more guidance? That's why I'm here. When looking for a new goggle, I first find something that fits. I sweat like a pig while riding, so I need the largest, spherical frame that will fit on my face. Also, I do some homework to find a style that will be around for a few years, so I can keep replacing the lens as needed (find a style that has been around a while, has pro models, or something you see a lot of people wearing are good indicators). I make sure that the lens tints that I prefer are available for that goggle. As I do not like to change lenses in the parking lot while there is shredding to be done, I own two pairs of goggles. My sunny, Bear Mtn, general lens is a mirrored rose, with around a 20% light transmission. This is great for sunny and mostly sunny days, and still works when the shade hits in the afternoon. For clouds, snow, and general nastiness, a non- mirrored rose lens with around a 60% light transmission.
Wear a helmet? If you do, make sure the goggles fit with it! The top of the goggles should be flush against the top lip of the helmet. Be sure the strap is long enough to fit as well (some goggle companies have longer straps or 'extender' straps available to accommodate helmets). Also, the helmet should not be overly pressing the goggles down on your nose. Comfort is what we're looking for here folks.
If you wear goggles all the time, it might be worth it to you to spend extra for a really nice pair of goggles. I replace the lens every year or two, and the frame usually lasts 4- 5 seasons. For the most part, you do get what you pay for, and a premium goggle usually will start around $60 and can easily go over $120. Hopefully now you will be looking good as well as seeing good! More shitty puns? I'll see you on the slopes!
The Lens: There are two types of lenses.
1. Cylindrical. This is the traditional shape that curves around the face from ear to ear.
2. Spherical. This is the newer style. Like a sphere, it curves around the round shape of the eye, in all directions. This causes less distortion looking through the lens, as well as creating more air space inside, which helps reduce fogging. Also, more expensive.
Any decent goggle (say, over $40 or so) will have a dual lens. If you look at the goggle closely, you will see that there are two lenses in front of your eyes, a few millimeters apart. This is to help prevent fogging. You do not want a single lens goggle. Believe me.
Lenses come in many different colors, and that's not just for matching outfits, really! Mirrored lenses cut glare in the sunlight, help with the lurk factor since nobody can see your eyes, and look cool, but generally do not work well in low or flat light conditions (cloudy, snowing, nighttime). For bright, sunny days, obviously a darker tinted lens is nice. Something that lets in 15% to 30% of the light. For an all around tint, usually the 25%- 50% range will work, depending on what your weather is usually like. A good range for stormy, flat light conditions is 50%- 85%. This is usually a little too bright for sunny days. At this point, you might be thinking that it would be a good idea to have two pairs of goggles, or at least an extra lens. Extra lens? Yup, if you didn't know, most higher end goggles have lenses that can be replaced.
Lens Tints. Believe it or not, a different color lens can have a huge impact on your ability to see, especially in the shade, snow, fog, or other low or flat light situations.
Sunny/ Bright Light. Brown, bronze, and gray are great for very sunny days, and a mirror will help cut the glare.
Night Riding. Clear, yellow, light rose, light persimmon, light orange. These colors help add definition to the snow, making it easier to spot dips and bumps, along with generally adding to depth perception.
Cloudy, Snowing. This is probably the most important one. You can't see the ground, the bumps, anything. I find a rose tint to give me the most definition, but persimmon and orange are good too. No mirrored coatings are needed here. A medium darkness tint (say 30%-50%) should give you a good all-in-one lens if you are only going with one lens. This will make visibility pretty good in most conditions.
What the hell? So, based on this info, you should be able to find the perfect goggle/ goggles for you. Need more guidance? That's why I'm here. When looking for a new goggle, I first find something that fits. I sweat like a pig while riding, so I need the largest, spherical frame that will fit on my face. Also, I do some homework to find a style that will be around for a few years, so I can keep replacing the lens as needed (find a style that has been around a while, has pro models, or something you see a lot of people wearing are good indicators). I make sure that the lens tints that I prefer are available for that goggle. As I do not like to change lenses in the parking lot while there is shredding to be done, I own two pairs of goggles. My sunny, Bear Mtn, general lens is a mirrored rose, with around a 20% light transmission. This is great for sunny and mostly sunny days, and still works when the shade hits in the afternoon. For clouds, snow, and general nastiness, a non- mirrored rose lens with around a 60% light transmission.
Wear a helmet? If you do, make sure the goggles fit with it! The top of the goggles should be flush against the top lip of the helmet. Be sure the strap is long enough to fit as well (some goggle companies have longer straps or 'extender' straps available to accommodate helmets). Also, the helmet should not be overly pressing the goggles down on your nose. Comfort is what we're looking for here folks.
If you wear goggles all the time, it might be worth it to you to spend extra for a really nice pair of goggles. I replace the lens every year or two, and the frame usually lasts 4- 5 seasons. For the most part, you do get what you pay for, and a premium goggle usually will start around $60 and can easily go over $120. Hopefully now you will be looking good as well as seeing good! More shitty puns? I'll see you on the slopes!
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Chosing the Right Bindings
Most people will tell you that boots are the most important part of your setup. True, and bindings fall into second place. With the right boots and bindings, you can pretty much ride any board without much trouble. As far as traditional bindings go (we'll get into step-ins later), there are three main types.
1. All aluminum
2. All plastic (actually, most of these are made of nylon, usually reinforced with fiberglass or something similar)
3. Hybrid. Like it sounds, usually part nylon, part aluminum.
Before getting into specifics, some general binding info. A softer flexing binding is going to be better for people starting out, as they are forgiving. This allows the rider to flex the binding some without the board reacting instantly, possibly putting them on their butt. These bindings also work well for the jib- loving box and rail guys for the same reason; they can tweak and shift their bodies while on a box without the board over-reacting. Now, the flex comes from several places. First, the baseplate will flex a certain way heel to toe, as well as side to side (like when you pull your knees together to flex the board). Secondly the highback, which will dictate how responsive your heelside turns are. Lastly, the ankle strap; softer allows forward flex, stiffer offers more support. Usually a softer baseplate will also have a softer highback and ankle strap.
Stiffer bindings are generally better for freeriding, going fast, and maintaining stability. Many pipe riders like stiffer bindings too, for the quick response time. The stiffness makes these responsive; when you shift, the bindings are going to turn your board. Quickly. For the accomplished rider, this may be a good thing. Again, a stiffer baseplate will usually have a stiff highback and ankle strap. The firm ankle strap gives one great support on toeside turns, as well as more stability all around; jump takeoffs, landings, riding fast through variable terrain. The downside would be some loss of flexability, both forward and side to side.
Other details. Toe straps. These days, most toe straps are going over the toe, as opposed to over the foot. Over the toe for most people is more comfortable, as it does not put much pressure on the front of the foot and also helps pull the foot back into the binding. This is mostly a personal preference, take your pick!
Highback rotation. I will not buy a binding if the highback does not rotate, and while most people don't bother, it is one of the single biggest adjustments that can be made to your bindings to improve your riding. Stand over your board and look down over your front binding. Since you have the binding angled forward, the highback is no longer parallel with the heel edge. By rotating the highback so it is even with your heel edge, heelside turns will be much easier and more responsive towards your efforts. As far as freestyle goes, the highback will be out of the way of your legs when tweaking laterally or medially, so you can tweak out airs and jibs and do them with even more style!
Padding. Typically, the higher end the binding, the more padding it will have. If you jump or do other high impact riding, this might be worth the extra cash.
Another price note: A decent, quality binding starts around $100, and can run over $400. Anything much less expensive should probably be avoided. Bindings have a lot of parts and cheap bindings are a nightmare to find parts for, as well as often being of poor design. Also, and this is a generalization, but usually the softer flexing bindings are going to be less expensive, and the stiffer ones will cost more as they have a little more tech built into them to make them stiffer.
Try before you buy. There is nothing wrong with bringing your boots with you to buy bindings. I sure want to know how that strap feels over my boot before I spend another $250. Also, all bindings fit differently, so I need to see how my boots fit in there. Most bindings are made in 2 or 3 different sizes. Loose gives some play for the freestyler. Tight gives the freerider a little more support. Just because they match your board doesn't mean they feel good on your feet! Like boots, try a few pairs on. See the difference between a $100 binding and a $300 one. Try a soft one, then a stiffer one. Make sure the buckles are easy to use. Again, this is all personal preference.
Ok, let's start with aluminum. And before we get into this, don't believe people who tell you that aluminum bindings do not flex. Bullshit. Burton's three highest end boards are made from aluminum, and they flex just fine. It is just a matter of how much aluminum and where it is on the binding. You can purchase soft and flexy, or stiffer and supportive. A supportive aluminum binding tends to run less expensive than an equally stiff nylon binding because the nylon needs a lot of carbon or fiberglass reinforcement to equal that of aluminum, raising the cost.
Nylon. Like I mentioned earlier, plastic-looking bindings are most likely made of nylon. To make the binding stiffer, companies will add fiberglass to the nylon, and carbon for a really stiff ride. Nylon bindings tend to be more damp (absorbs vibrations) than aluminum, which is why you see extra padding under the baseplate of many aluminum binders to absorb shock. One downside to an all nylon binding is that the heelcup is usually fixed to the rest of the baseplate. That means that you must use the round binding disk to center your feet on the board. A medium flex nylon binding might have 15% fiberglass built in, while a really stiff one may have 30% carbon built in. Just some things to look for when shopping.
Hybrid. Typically, a nylon baseplate with an aluminum heelcup. Many companies prefer this construction as the nylon baseplate is softer, allowing the board to flex lengthwise, while the stiff heelcup is responsive from heel to toe. This construction also allows (usually) one to center their foot on the board by adjusting the heelcup, and then the center disc can be used to make minor tweaks to their stance width. This is usually true with aluminum bindings as well.
And then.... Not sure what is best for you? Let me confuse you with this: if you ride a soft boot and want more support, then a stiffer binding can help. Conversely, if you ride stiff boots, you might not need all the support of a stiff binding as well. Also, a well designed binder should allow for strap adjustment. Some like the ankle strap high on the foot for support and ankle/ heel hold, others like it low for flexibility. Like I said, try before you buy!
This just in! Now that rockered boards are making a showing, bindings are being developed to work with them. Cants. Cants angle you feet inwards using a wedge in the footbed of the bindings. This allows for wider stances, as the cants will angle your knees together some. This makes turning easier, and takes some pressure off the knees. Also, with the rockered nose and tail curving up, the wedge of the cant makes it easier to get pressure onto the tail, essentially giving the rider more "pop". This was in vogue in the 80's and early 90's, and hopefully cants are back for good! Another early 90's technology that is coming back are baseless bindings (and similar tech designs). The idea here is to eliminate as much (or all) material from under foot as possible. This allows the board to flex fully, eliminating "dead spots" under the bindings, while allowing much greater feel of the snow underfoot. With better technology than 15 years ago, these are much improved over their forefathers. Some companies are using flexible baseplate material or flexing or folding binding discs to accomplish similar results. Snowboard technology has really been spreading its wings the last few seasons, it'll be interesting to see what stands the test of time.
Step-ins. Speaking of standing the test of time, step-in bindings turned up in the mid 90's and have since gone the way of the dinosaur. Still, nobody likes having to sit and strap in at the top of every chair. The first wave of step-ins by design made the boot act like a ski boot, providing all the support. Many of these boots were uncomfortable, and were only compatible with one system (at one point, there were at least 5 major step-in systems on the market, all different and incompatible with each other). The new systems all use regular boots, and just have easy entry bindings. We'll get into these in another post, but again, this is new technology (for the most part), so we'll see what lasts and what falls by the wayside.
Now you are armed with the info to find yourself the perfect pair of bindings. Take your time setting them up; it will make all the difference in your riding! Also, read my Shoe Goo blog so everything doesn't come loose on you on the hill!
1. All aluminum
2. All plastic (actually, most of these are made of nylon, usually reinforced with fiberglass or something similar)
3. Hybrid. Like it sounds, usually part nylon, part aluminum.
Before getting into specifics, some general binding info. A softer flexing binding is going to be better for people starting out, as they are forgiving. This allows the rider to flex the binding some without the board reacting instantly, possibly putting them on their butt. These bindings also work well for the jib- loving box and rail guys for the same reason; they can tweak and shift their bodies while on a box without the board over-reacting. Now, the flex comes from several places. First, the baseplate will flex a certain way heel to toe, as well as side to side (like when you pull your knees together to flex the board). Secondly the highback, which will dictate how responsive your heelside turns are. Lastly, the ankle strap; softer allows forward flex, stiffer offers more support. Usually a softer baseplate will also have a softer highback and ankle strap.
Stiffer bindings are generally better for freeriding, going fast, and maintaining stability. Many pipe riders like stiffer bindings too, for the quick response time. The stiffness makes these responsive; when you shift, the bindings are going to turn your board. Quickly. For the accomplished rider, this may be a good thing. Again, a stiffer baseplate will usually have a stiff highback and ankle strap. The firm ankle strap gives one great support on toeside turns, as well as more stability all around; jump takeoffs, landings, riding fast through variable terrain. The downside would be some loss of flexability, both forward and side to side.
Other details. Toe straps. These days, most toe straps are going over the toe, as opposed to over the foot. Over the toe for most people is more comfortable, as it does not put much pressure on the front of the foot and also helps pull the foot back into the binding. This is mostly a personal preference, take your pick!
Highback rotation. I will not buy a binding if the highback does not rotate, and while most people don't bother, it is one of the single biggest adjustments that can be made to your bindings to improve your riding. Stand over your board and look down over your front binding. Since you have the binding angled forward, the highback is no longer parallel with the heel edge. By rotating the highback so it is even with your heel edge, heelside turns will be much easier and more responsive towards your efforts. As far as freestyle goes, the highback will be out of the way of your legs when tweaking laterally or medially, so you can tweak out airs and jibs and do them with even more style!
Padding. Typically, the higher end the binding, the more padding it will have. If you jump or do other high impact riding, this might be worth the extra cash.
Another price note: A decent, quality binding starts around $100, and can run over $400. Anything much less expensive should probably be avoided. Bindings have a lot of parts and cheap bindings are a nightmare to find parts for, as well as often being of poor design. Also, and this is a generalization, but usually the softer flexing bindings are going to be less expensive, and the stiffer ones will cost more as they have a little more tech built into them to make them stiffer.
Try before you buy. There is nothing wrong with bringing your boots with you to buy bindings. I sure want to know how that strap feels over my boot before I spend another $250. Also, all bindings fit differently, so I need to see how my boots fit in there. Most bindings are made in 2 or 3 different sizes. Loose gives some play for the freestyler. Tight gives the freerider a little more support. Just because they match your board doesn't mean they feel good on your feet! Like boots, try a few pairs on. See the difference between a $100 binding and a $300 one. Try a soft one, then a stiffer one. Make sure the buckles are easy to use. Again, this is all personal preference.
Ok, let's start with aluminum. And before we get into this, don't believe people who tell you that aluminum bindings do not flex. Bullshit. Burton's three highest end boards are made from aluminum, and they flex just fine. It is just a matter of how much aluminum and where it is on the binding. You can purchase soft and flexy, or stiffer and supportive. A supportive aluminum binding tends to run less expensive than an equally stiff nylon binding because the nylon needs a lot of carbon or fiberglass reinforcement to equal that of aluminum, raising the cost.
Nylon. Like I mentioned earlier, plastic-looking bindings are most likely made of nylon. To make the binding stiffer, companies will add fiberglass to the nylon, and carbon for a really stiff ride. Nylon bindings tend to be more damp (absorbs vibrations) than aluminum, which is why you see extra padding under the baseplate of many aluminum binders to absorb shock. One downside to an all nylon binding is that the heelcup is usually fixed to the rest of the baseplate. That means that you must use the round binding disk to center your feet on the board. A medium flex nylon binding might have 15% fiberglass built in, while a really stiff one may have 30% carbon built in. Just some things to look for when shopping.
Hybrid. Typically, a nylon baseplate with an aluminum heelcup. Many companies prefer this construction as the nylon baseplate is softer, allowing the board to flex lengthwise, while the stiff heelcup is responsive from heel to toe. This construction also allows (usually) one to center their foot on the board by adjusting the heelcup, and then the center disc can be used to make minor tweaks to their stance width. This is usually true with aluminum bindings as well.
And then.... Not sure what is best for you? Let me confuse you with this: if you ride a soft boot and want more support, then a stiffer binding can help. Conversely, if you ride stiff boots, you might not need all the support of a stiff binding as well. Also, a well designed binder should allow for strap adjustment. Some like the ankle strap high on the foot for support and ankle/ heel hold, others like it low for flexibility. Like I said, try before you buy!
This just in! Now that rockered boards are making a showing, bindings are being developed to work with them. Cants. Cants angle you feet inwards using a wedge in the footbed of the bindings. This allows for wider stances, as the cants will angle your knees together some. This makes turning easier, and takes some pressure off the knees. Also, with the rockered nose and tail curving up, the wedge of the cant makes it easier to get pressure onto the tail, essentially giving the rider more "pop". This was in vogue in the 80's and early 90's, and hopefully cants are back for good! Another early 90's technology that is coming back are baseless bindings (and similar tech designs). The idea here is to eliminate as much (or all) material from under foot as possible. This allows the board to flex fully, eliminating "dead spots" under the bindings, while allowing much greater feel of the snow underfoot. With better technology than 15 years ago, these are much improved over their forefathers. Some companies are using flexible baseplate material or flexing or folding binding discs to accomplish similar results. Snowboard technology has really been spreading its wings the last few seasons, it'll be interesting to see what stands the test of time.
Step-ins. Speaking of standing the test of time, step-in bindings turned up in the mid 90's and have since gone the way of the dinosaur. Still, nobody likes having to sit and strap in at the top of every chair. The first wave of step-ins by design made the boot act like a ski boot, providing all the support. Many of these boots were uncomfortable, and were only compatible with one system (at one point, there were at least 5 major step-in systems on the market, all different and incompatible with each other). The new systems all use regular boots, and just have easy entry bindings. We'll get into these in another post, but again, this is new technology (for the most part), so we'll see what lasts and what falls by the wayside.
Now you are armed with the info to find yourself the perfect pair of bindings. Take your time setting them up; it will make all the difference in your riding! Also, read my Shoe Goo blog so everything doesn't come loose on you on the hill!
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
How to Ride Powder (Or, the BEST DAY EVER!)
Yeah, it's really that good. Ever heard the phrase, "no friends on a powder day"? Ever hear someone try explaining to their boss how they got a windchapped, goggle face while at home in bed with the flu? Yup. That good.
Since it's looking like El Nino is back to bitch slap the Southern California mountains like I haven't seen in years, many of you masters of the groomed runs and hardpack would probably like to know how to handle the deep fresh stuff. I almost don't want to spread this knowledge, cause you are going to end up tracking out lines that could have been mine! But, to promote snowboarding, I'm just gonna have to make sacrifices.
I wouldn't say powder riding is hard per say, it just takes a different technique. Firstly, Equipment. You're going to sink; if it's deep, you're going to sink a lot. To help ease this, a longer board is nice. I weigh around 145lbs and use a 155cm board for most stuff, which is usually high speed groomers and whatever until I find the park. Then, lots of jumps. If I'm going to Mammoth after 2 feet of fresh, I ride a 160cm. If you are going to use your same board, you will want to move the bindings back towards the tail of the board, so the front end is a few inches longer than the back. This will help keep the nose of the board up and out of the snow. If you end up wanting a second board for powder (it's worth it), look for something 3- 6cm longer than your normal board. There are many powder-specialized boards, all designed to keep you floating and make life as fun as possible. Boards with rocker by design help keep the nose up, tapered boards (the tail is narrower than the nose) do the same by allowing the narrower tail to sink. And yes, this is important. When your nose sinks in powder, a typical result is a nose dive, followed by you pitching face first into said powder. Now you have to get up, and every time you push with your arms, they sink further. We'll get into this more later, but it sucks and should be avoided at all costs, unless you really want to entertain your friends. Make sure you are wearing good, waterproof gear, especially gloves. Odds are the humidity is higher than you're used to, and you'll have your hands in the snow more than usual. If you are in Utah or Colorado, ignore this, but out here in California, Mammoth and Tahoe have what is often called Sierra Cement. This tends to stick to you quite well. For all these reasons, good ventilated goggles are a must. I almost had a powder day go to shit because I couldn't see through my fogging goggles (in a pinch, the hand dryers in the bathroom can really help get the condensation out of them).
Next, head for the steepest runs you are comfortable with. Powder is much slower than packed snow and if you stop, getting stuck is a serious possibility. It's easiest to start off just going straight, with your base flat. You want to turn more like on a surfboard, wakeboard or water ski. Lean back so the nose is up, and with more weight on your back leg, you will sort of "fan" your front leg back and forth to make turns, pivoting around your rear leg. You will still be flexing your board, but more lengthwise, not along your edge like on hardpack. The deeper the powder, the more prevalent this becomes. In deep stuff, trying to turn like you would on hardpack by putting even pressure on the front or middle of your edge will nosedive you right into the white room. You'll see. Also, if the powder is really light, and over 15 inches deep or so, you can actually slow down while going straight. You are already leaning back, so the front of your board is angled out of the snow; now just push a little harder straight down with your back leg, angling the nose up even more. This resistance will slow you down nicely, and is nice if you are riding in trees (don't ride there? you will when you learn to ride powder!) and need to slow down but don't have room to turn. Just "brake" with that back leg and point it between that tree and rock! Those are pretty much the basics; some practice and you'll figure it out. Next are some problems associated with shredding said powder, but let's not let that piss on our cornflakes!
I'm not going to tell you where the best places on the hill are for powder, but the easy one is the trees. I will tell you that many people stay on the trails, so the trees are more likely to have untracked fresh. Secondly, when the weather is shitty, there is less wind blowing in the trees and the depth perception is better.
All powder is not equal. Fresh, untracked sheets of white are the best. Best turns, best landings, best days. This is usually a small window after a storm, and most mountains can be mostly tracked out in a day. So, you are going to be left riding through some tracked powder. This can be a project, especially in the deeper snow. When you are on fresh and hit a track, your board is going to drop into that track, maybe an inch, maybe a foot. Anyway, if you don't pay attention, you can really get pitched around, think bull riding. I try to hit these things perpendicularly, so my nose just bounces up and back. When you start getting in really choppy stuff, keep the legs bent to act as shock absorbers and work on keeping the nose up and try not to let an edge dip too far into a track, or a snag and fall will ensue.
Falling. Actually, falling usually is not too bad. Just like on hardpack, do NOT put your arms down! If the snow isn't that deep, you could bust a wrist just like on the groomers. Plus, you never know what could be buried under the snow; rocks, logs and other stuff that's not fun to fall on. Lastly, you will just sink more. Spread out your arms so you stay on top and minimize sinking in the soft stuff, like a snow angel! If you are tumbling, protect the melon, and try not to get twisted too weirdly. I like to flop, myself (cursing and shreiking like a little girl optional). Also, if your friends are like mine (god forbid) the second you go down they are going to try to spray the shit out of you with a rooster tail of powder. This is great if you like snow in your face, and down your jacket and pants all at the same time while trying to get re-oriented.
Getting up. The biggest problem besides fighting people for fresh lines is trying to get up in this wonderful, sometimes nightmarish stuff. However you land, it's usually easiest to turn onto your butt, get your board down hill and try to sit up. If on your stomach, try to get your board downhill, and sort of squat and push so your weight is over your board and you can stand and get moving. This is why we want to be on the steeper runs. If your arms sink when you push up behind you, try packing snow into your new armholes so you can push up. When I stop, I'll try to get against a tree or rock if possible. That way, I don't have to deal with getting up; just turn it back downhill.
Couple extras. Often, your powder days are going to be overcast, or snowing. Be sure to have the right goggle lens. A light rose has great definition in flat and stormy light, yellow is good when it's darker with flat light, light orange or persimmon are pretty good too. Mirrored, grey, brown, and darker lenses can make it really difficult to see. Buy a backup! Gloves with the gauntlets that go past the wrist can help keep snow out of the sleeves. Mittens are nice cause they tend to be warmer and dryer than gloves, and are easier to take on and off. You will probably be taking them off more than usual, to get snow off your bindings, boots, goggles, ass, you name it. Jacket; make sure it has a powderskirt. They seen stupid, but most resort shops have these little sponge/ squeegee things in a tub on their front counter for like $3. These actually work great for getting snow off your lens.
So that's pretty much it. This was a lot longer than I anticipated, and it kind of sounds complicated. Let me put powder riding in perspective. It's not like learning to ride, and easier than most jumping tricks and jibbing. Some of the world's top pros have walked away from fame, contests, money just to pursue fresh powder. Yeah, it's that good.
Since it's looking like El Nino is back to bitch slap the Southern California mountains like I haven't seen in years, many of you masters of the groomed runs and hardpack would probably like to know how to handle the deep fresh stuff. I almost don't want to spread this knowledge, cause you are going to end up tracking out lines that could have been mine! But, to promote snowboarding, I'm just gonna have to make sacrifices.
I wouldn't say powder riding is hard per say, it just takes a different technique. Firstly, Equipment. You're going to sink; if it's deep, you're going to sink a lot. To help ease this, a longer board is nice. I weigh around 145lbs and use a 155cm board for most stuff, which is usually high speed groomers and whatever until I find the park. Then, lots of jumps. If I'm going to Mammoth after 2 feet of fresh, I ride a 160cm. If you are going to use your same board, you will want to move the bindings back towards the tail of the board, so the front end is a few inches longer than the back. This will help keep the nose of the board up and out of the snow. If you end up wanting a second board for powder (it's worth it), look for something 3- 6cm longer than your normal board. There are many powder-specialized boards, all designed to keep you floating and make life as fun as possible. Boards with rocker by design help keep the nose up, tapered boards (the tail is narrower than the nose) do the same by allowing the narrower tail to sink. And yes, this is important. When your nose sinks in powder, a typical result is a nose dive, followed by you pitching face first into said powder. Now you have to get up, and every time you push with your arms, they sink further. We'll get into this more later, but it sucks and should be avoided at all costs, unless you really want to entertain your friends. Make sure you are wearing good, waterproof gear, especially gloves. Odds are the humidity is higher than you're used to, and you'll have your hands in the snow more than usual. If you are in Utah or Colorado, ignore this, but out here in California, Mammoth and Tahoe have what is often called Sierra Cement. This tends to stick to you quite well. For all these reasons, good ventilated goggles are a must. I almost had a powder day go to shit because I couldn't see through my fogging goggles (in a pinch, the hand dryers in the bathroom can really help get the condensation out of them).
Next, head for the steepest runs you are comfortable with. Powder is much slower than packed snow and if you stop, getting stuck is a serious possibility. It's easiest to start off just going straight, with your base flat. You want to turn more like on a surfboard, wakeboard or water ski. Lean back so the nose is up, and with more weight on your back leg, you will sort of "fan" your front leg back and forth to make turns, pivoting around your rear leg. You will still be flexing your board, but more lengthwise, not along your edge like on hardpack. The deeper the powder, the more prevalent this becomes. In deep stuff, trying to turn like you would on hardpack by putting even pressure on the front or middle of your edge will nosedive you right into the white room. You'll see. Also, if the powder is really light, and over 15 inches deep or so, you can actually slow down while going straight. You are already leaning back, so the front of your board is angled out of the snow; now just push a little harder straight down with your back leg, angling the nose up even more. This resistance will slow you down nicely, and is nice if you are riding in trees (don't ride there? you will when you learn to ride powder!) and need to slow down but don't have room to turn. Just "brake" with that back leg and point it between that tree and rock! Those are pretty much the basics; some practice and you'll figure it out. Next are some problems associated with shredding said powder, but let's not let that piss on our cornflakes!
I'm not going to tell you where the best places on the hill are for powder, but the easy one is the trees. I will tell you that many people stay on the trails, so the trees are more likely to have untracked fresh. Secondly, when the weather is shitty, there is less wind blowing in the trees and the depth perception is better.
All powder is not equal. Fresh, untracked sheets of white are the best. Best turns, best landings, best days. This is usually a small window after a storm, and most mountains can be mostly tracked out in a day. So, you are going to be left riding through some tracked powder. This can be a project, especially in the deeper snow. When you are on fresh and hit a track, your board is going to drop into that track, maybe an inch, maybe a foot. Anyway, if you don't pay attention, you can really get pitched around, think bull riding. I try to hit these things perpendicularly, so my nose just bounces up and back. When you start getting in really choppy stuff, keep the legs bent to act as shock absorbers and work on keeping the nose up and try not to let an edge dip too far into a track, or a snag and fall will ensue.
Falling. Actually, falling usually is not too bad. Just like on hardpack, do NOT put your arms down! If the snow isn't that deep, you could bust a wrist just like on the groomers. Plus, you never know what could be buried under the snow; rocks, logs and other stuff that's not fun to fall on. Lastly, you will just sink more. Spread out your arms so you stay on top and minimize sinking in the soft stuff, like a snow angel! If you are tumbling, protect the melon, and try not to get twisted too weirdly. I like to flop, myself (cursing and shreiking like a little girl optional). Also, if your friends are like mine (god forbid) the second you go down they are going to try to spray the shit out of you with a rooster tail of powder. This is great if you like snow in your face, and down your jacket and pants all at the same time while trying to get re-oriented.
Getting up. The biggest problem besides fighting people for fresh lines is trying to get up in this wonderful, sometimes nightmarish stuff. However you land, it's usually easiest to turn onto your butt, get your board down hill and try to sit up. If on your stomach, try to get your board downhill, and sort of squat and push so your weight is over your board and you can stand and get moving. This is why we want to be on the steeper runs. If your arms sink when you push up behind you, try packing snow into your new armholes so you can push up. When I stop, I'll try to get against a tree or rock if possible. That way, I don't have to deal with getting up; just turn it back downhill.
Couple extras. Often, your powder days are going to be overcast, or snowing. Be sure to have the right goggle lens. A light rose has great definition in flat and stormy light, yellow is good when it's darker with flat light, light orange or persimmon are pretty good too. Mirrored, grey, brown, and darker lenses can make it really difficult to see. Buy a backup! Gloves with the gauntlets that go past the wrist can help keep snow out of the sleeves. Mittens are nice cause they tend to be warmer and dryer than gloves, and are easier to take on and off. You will probably be taking them off more than usual, to get snow off your bindings, boots, goggles, ass, you name it. Jacket; make sure it has a powderskirt. They seen stupid, but most resort shops have these little sponge/ squeegee things in a tub on their front counter for like $3. These actually work great for getting snow off your lens.
So that's pretty much it. This was a lot longer than I anticipated, and it kind of sounds complicated. Let me put powder riding in perspective. It's not like learning to ride, and easier than most jumping tricks and jibbing. Some of the world's top pros have walked away from fame, contests, money just to pursue fresh powder. Yeah, it's that good.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Loose Nuts? Shoe Goo!
If you're not a skateboarder, you probably don't know about the "almost as good as duct tape" product, Shoe Goo. You can find this wonderful, disgusting substance at places like Cvs, Rite Aide, Osh, Home Depot. Look for it in the adhesives, automotive, or home repair aisles. As we all know, pretty much every screw on our snowboard comes loose eventually. We also know that lock-tight can damage snowboards and is a bad idea. This is where the toothpaste-like snot tube comes in. Swipe some Shoe Goo across a finger, then swipe the Goo along the threads of each binding screw. You don't need a ton; just enough to fill the threads along one side. Give these 15 minutes or so to dry, and put everything back together. The Shoe Goo will not glue anything together, but its rubbery compound will keep screws from coming loose. Really!
Monday, January 4, 2010
Have Wax, Will Scrape
Ok, you just spent way more on wax than you thought was possible, now what? Again, I am not a ski racer. I just like to go fast, and this has worked best for me in 20+ years of experimentation and research. First of all, your base is porous, and the idea is to absorb as much wax as possible into that base. Hence, the iron. The iron heats the base, opening the pores for the wax. You can get a decent tuning iron for around $40. I used an old household iron for years when I started out, and that worked ok too.
What you need: An iron, wax, plastic scraper, a scouring(brillo) pad (those green things in the kitchen you use to get the black shit off of pots and pans). These are the basics; you can get further in-depth with various brushes. Nylon to further help the scouring pad buff the base and get ALL wax off, a horsehair brush for finishing buffing and to remove static electricity from the base.
Sidebar: Kids, do not use Mom's iron for this! Believe me, it will NEVER be the same! The main concern is that the iron does not get too hot. If the wax starts to smoke, it is too hot. Smoke means the wax is breaking down, so just back off the temperature until it stops. Also, flourocarbons aren't just expensive, they're toxic too! So keep the smoke down and stay in a ventilated area.
Drip the wax onto the base by pressing the wax against the iron, start along one edge, going lengthwise, 4 to 6 rows should do it. Again, use a colder wax along the edges, it will better protect the edge, and the grey moly all over with the correct temp wax. If you are in doubt about the wax temp, always go on the cold side. When ironing the wax into the base is where most people (and many shop kids) make their mistake. The base must be heated enough to open up and absorb the wax, otherwise it is just drying on top. Run the iron slowly from tip to tail. The iron will leave a "snail track" of melted wax behind it. If you are using a warm wax, keep the trail around 6 to 8 inches long. If it's a cold wax, more like 3 to 4 inches. If the base is heated too much, it can be damaged, along with the core, so check the topsheet every once in a while; warm is ok, but don't let it get hot. A few more passes, make sure all areas are covered, and leave it alone until cool. Get yourself a beverage, the heavy labor is about to begin.
Ok, here is where the manual labor starts. Start with the plastic scraper; hold it's edge at around a 45degree angle to the base and draw it TOWARDS you, lengthwise, tip to tail. It is important to pull towards you, because that forces the wax further into the base, while scraping off all surface wax. When most of it seems scraped off, lay into it with the scouring (brillo) pad, again, lengthwise, tip to tail. Again, you do not want any wax left on the bottom. If you run a fingernail across the base and get wax, keep scraping and buffing! Pay special attention to the area under the bindings, it usually is indented a little there so there will be more wax buildup. At this point, you are ready to rock and roll. This will most likely be way better than any shop wax you've had done. If you want to go that extra step (extra speed), get to it with the brushes as a finishing touch.
What you need: An iron, wax, plastic scraper, a scouring(brillo) pad (those green things in the kitchen you use to get the black shit off of pots and pans). These are the basics; you can get further in-depth with various brushes. Nylon to further help the scouring pad buff the base and get ALL wax off, a horsehair brush for finishing buffing and to remove static electricity from the base.
Sidebar: Kids, do not use Mom's iron for this! Believe me, it will NEVER be the same! The main concern is that the iron does not get too hot. If the wax starts to smoke, it is too hot. Smoke means the wax is breaking down, so just back off the temperature until it stops. Also, flourocarbons aren't just expensive, they're toxic too! So keep the smoke down and stay in a ventilated area.
Drip the wax onto the base by pressing the wax against the iron, start along one edge, going lengthwise, 4 to 6 rows should do it. Again, use a colder wax along the edges, it will better protect the edge, and the grey moly all over with the correct temp wax. If you are in doubt about the wax temp, always go on the cold side. When ironing the wax into the base is where most people (and many shop kids) make their mistake. The base must be heated enough to open up and absorb the wax, otherwise it is just drying on top. Run the iron slowly from tip to tail. The iron will leave a "snail track" of melted wax behind it. If you are using a warm wax, keep the trail around 6 to 8 inches long. If it's a cold wax, more like 3 to 4 inches. If the base is heated too much, it can be damaged, along with the core, so check the topsheet every once in a while; warm is ok, but don't let it get hot. A few more passes, make sure all areas are covered, and leave it alone until cool. Get yourself a beverage, the heavy labor is about to begin.
Ok, here is where the manual labor starts. Start with the plastic scraper; hold it's edge at around a 45degree angle to the base and draw it TOWARDS you, lengthwise, tip to tail. It is important to pull towards you, because that forces the wax further into the base, while scraping off all surface wax. When most of it seems scraped off, lay into it with the scouring (brillo) pad, again, lengthwise, tip to tail. Again, you do not want any wax left on the bottom. If you run a fingernail across the base and get wax, keep scraping and buffing! Pay special attention to the area under the bindings, it usually is indented a little there so there will be more wax buildup. At this point, you are ready to rock and roll. This will most likely be way better than any shop wax you've had done. If you want to go that extra step (extra speed), get to it with the brushes as a finishing touch.
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Wax, what's that?
Ok, let's learn about wax types. This is a rarely covered topic among snowboarders. Keep in mind here, I am not a ski racer. Waxing techniques can get very in depth and complicated. I just like to go fast and hate losing speed across the flats. You might be wondering, "how important is this?" First of all, your base is pourous, and will dry out if not waxed on a regular basis. When you see the bottom look fuzzy or the dark colors start to look faded, you probably need to wax. Secondly, do you like being passed by every skier on the flats? Me neither.
Sidebar: Boards generally have one of two types of bases; extruded or sintered. Extruded bases are softer in density (slower), easier to repair, don't hold as much wax, and are less expensive than sintered bases. Since sintered bases hold much more wax, it is more important to maintain them, so they do not dry out. Typically, boards over $400 will have sintered bases. This post is more focused on the sintered base. I'll get into base material more thoroughly in a base- specific post later.
Wax can be really confusing, as there are many types available at greatly varied costs, with lots of confusing names. In actuality, they all very similar. The main thing to look for in a good wax is one that is flourinated. Flourocarbons are expensive stuff. If a basic bar of wax is say $10, a bar the same size that is low flourinated might run you around $25, and a high flouro bar could be $75 or more. The high flouro stuff, because of the price, is pretty much just for racing. Or, if you have a ton of cash to blow on something like this. I like the brand Toko, because they don't use a lot of odd terminology. Everything is labeled well. There is a very noticable difference in speed between regular wax and a flourinated wax. The one other technical wax is molybdenum, which is similar to graphite in that it helps reduce static electricity and friction.
So, what to do with all this info? Get yourself a grey moly wax, and some low flouro bars in a few temperature ranges. Matching wax to snow temperature makes for a much faster ride than just using all temp wax. Cover the entire base with the moly, use the correct temp wax for the entire base, and then use a colder temp wax along the two edges of the board. (since you put the most pressure on your edges, the harder wax here holds up longer). That's it. That's my trick to a fast glide. Like I said, flourinated wax is much faster than a regular hydrocarbon wax, but even regular wax applied with this technique will make for a much faster board than most shop tunes. Next time I'll go over how to properly apply these waxes for maximum speed.
Sidebar: Boards generally have one of two types of bases; extruded or sintered. Extruded bases are softer in density (slower), easier to repair, don't hold as much wax, and are less expensive than sintered bases. Since sintered bases hold much more wax, it is more important to maintain them, so they do not dry out. Typically, boards over $400 will have sintered bases. This post is more focused on the sintered base. I'll get into base material more thoroughly in a base- specific post later.
Wax can be really confusing, as there are many types available at greatly varied costs, with lots of confusing names. In actuality, they all very similar. The main thing to look for in a good wax is one that is flourinated. Flourocarbons are expensive stuff. If a basic bar of wax is say $10, a bar the same size that is low flourinated might run you around $25, and a high flouro bar could be $75 or more. The high flouro stuff, because of the price, is pretty much just for racing. Or, if you have a ton of cash to blow on something like this. I like the brand Toko, because they don't use a lot of odd terminology. Everything is labeled well. There is a very noticable difference in speed between regular wax and a flourinated wax. The one other technical wax is molybdenum, which is similar to graphite in that it helps reduce static electricity and friction.
So, what to do with all this info? Get yourself a grey moly wax, and some low flouro bars in a few temperature ranges. Matching wax to snow temperature makes for a much faster ride than just using all temp wax. Cover the entire base with the moly, use the correct temp wax for the entire base, and then use a colder temp wax along the two edges of the board. (since you put the most pressure on your edges, the harder wax here holds up longer). That's it. That's my trick to a fast glide. Like I said, flourinated wax is much faster than a regular hydrocarbon wax, but even regular wax applied with this technique will make for a much faster board than most shop tunes. Next time I'll go over how to properly apply these waxes for maximum speed.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
