Ok, let's learn about wax types. This is a rarely covered topic among snowboarders. Keep in mind here, I am not a ski racer. Waxing techniques can get very in depth and complicated. I just like to go fast and hate losing speed across the flats. You might be wondering, "how important is this?" First of all, your base is pourous, and will dry out if not waxed on a regular basis. When you see the bottom look fuzzy or the dark colors start to look faded, you probably need to wax. Secondly, do you like being passed by every skier on the flats? Me neither.
Sidebar: Boards generally have one of two types of bases; extruded or sintered. Extruded bases are softer in density (slower), easier to repair, don't hold as much wax, and are less expensive than sintered bases. Since sintered bases hold much more wax, it is more important to maintain them, so they do not dry out. Typically, boards over $400 will have sintered bases. This post is more focused on the sintered base. I'll get into base material more thoroughly in a base- specific post later.
Wax can be really confusing, as there are many types available at greatly varied costs, with lots of confusing names. In actuality, they all very similar. The main thing to look for in a good wax is one that is flourinated. Flourocarbons are expensive stuff. If a basic bar of wax is say $10, a bar the same size that is low flourinated might run you around $25, and a high flouro bar could be $75 or more. The high flouro stuff, because of the price, is pretty much just for racing. Or, if you have a ton of cash to blow on something like this. I like the brand Toko, because they don't use a lot of odd terminology. Everything is labeled well. There is a very noticable difference in speed between regular wax and a flourinated wax. The one other technical wax is molybdenum, which is similar to graphite in that it helps reduce static electricity and friction.
So, what to do with all this info? Get yourself a grey moly wax, and some low flouro bars in a few temperature ranges. Matching wax to snow temperature makes for a much faster ride than just using all temp wax. Cover the entire base with the moly, use the correct temp wax for the entire base, and then use a colder temp wax along the two edges of the board. (since you put the most pressure on your edges, the harder wax here holds up longer). That's it. That's my trick to a fast glide. Like I said, flourinated wax is much faster than a regular hydrocarbon wax, but even regular wax applied with this technique will make for a much faster board than most shop tunes. Next time I'll go over how to properly apply these waxes for maximum speed.
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Buying New Boots- A point in the right direction!
Owning the right boots is by far the most important part of your setup. You can have a thousand dollar board and binding setup, and if your feet hurt, you're gonna be in the lodge crying and drinking hot buttered rum by 10am! A good pair of boots however, will allow you to have fun on almost anything! So, plan on having the money to spend on the right pair for you, before worrying about a board or bindings. If you only buy one thing, make it boots. Would you rather rent a piece of shit board or piece of shit boots? Do you think there's any fungus on the board? What about those old rental boots? See where I'm going here?
Firstly, one should always try on boots before buying, NO MATTER WHAT. The two main factors to consider are size and flex. Beyond that, pick what fits the best, and then, graphics. Most major boots companies have a different fit and feel to them, so trying a few should give you a good idea what brand will work best for you.
In very general terms, an entry level boot might run you between $100 and $150. For a good, mid range quality boot, $150 to $220 should get you something you'll be stoked on. Most people who snowboard regularly spend in this range. Getting over $250 usually gets you the top of the line, depending on the company. This means the newest technology, maybe ultralight, maybe a high end liner, better padding options, the works. If you have this kind of money to blow, try on a $120 boot, then try a $250 one. I'm guessing you'll see where the money is going!
Softer boots are great for beginners, as they tend to be pretty comfortable and are forgiving, and usually are less expensive than a really stiff boot. The park (box and rail) guys also like softer boots so they can 'tweak out' their tricks better; do them with some style.
Stiffer boots take longer to break in and are less forgiving, but tend to last longer because of the extra materials used to stiffen up the boot. These boots tend to have higher end features than softer ones, mostly because at this level of boot, the rider is usually an experienced, faster rider, and willing to pay more for their gear. Stiffer boots make turning much easier as it takes pressure off your ankles, and also give you support for going fast, and through choppy snow. Also, they give great support on the takeoff and landing of larger (40ft+ jumps).
Still not sure? Ask the shop kid to try on the mid flexing boots, that's the majority of what's out there, and suits most people well. Ok, so now you know what kind of boots you want, stiff or soft or in the middle, how the hell should they fit? First, bring your snowboard socks with you to try stuff on; thickness makes a BIG difference. A good, mid weight sock should do the trick; today's boots are waterproof and warm enough for that. Please tell me you have snow socks and aren't wearing cotton! Cotton will give you cold, wet feet, and maybe even blisters! Stick with wool or acrylic. Wearing more sock just makes the boots fit worse these days. A brand new boot should be snug all over, but not tight or pinching. When you first slide your foot in, the big toe should just touch the front of the boot. Too tight? Not yet. Lace up the liner and the shell. Now stand on that foot, and with all your weight on that leg, squat, bending your knee over your toes. You should feel your heel sinking into all that padding around your ankle, and your big toe should pull back from the front so it either is just lightly brushing, or just not quite touching. 2 reasons for this. One, as your ankle breaks in and molds around that back padding, your entire foot will sink towards the back of the boot, an eigth to a quarter of an inch, depending on the boot. Secondly, you want to wear snowboard boots a little smaller than street shoes because the bindings hold your foot back and in place. Street shoes have some play for feet to slip a little and not hit the front. The rest of the foot should feel snug as well. Companies put extra padding all around the foot for a proper fit. Until your foot forms around this foam, it will feel snug. If you buy loose fitting boots, when they break in, they are going to be too loose! Lastly, your heel should stay pretty tucked in and not lift up when you walk. If you have a narrow ankle, this is important to keep in mind. Some higher end boots have extra pads that can be put in for narrow ankles. Women, look at womens' boots. They are not just cuter! Women's boots are narrower in the heel and have higher arches to accomodate a woman's foot. Also, the top cuff is usually lower and wider, as the female calf is lower than a man's.
Since these boots do form to your feet, once you try them on, leave them on for a while. This is especially important with a stiffer boot. Walking around the shop for 10 minutes, many boots that feel tight will start to loosen up. I'll put a different boot on each foot, and wander around until one is bothering me, then move on to another. Conversely, a boot that initially feels great might not be shaped right for your foot and you might start to feel some cramping. This is where a shop with someone who knows a little about boot fitting is important, because they should be able to troubleshoot little problems.
Customization: Many boots can be heat molded, which is heating up the liner and putting your foot in, shaping the foam around your foot. Some shops charge, some charge a lot, some don't. I ride 30+ days a year and think this is absolutely worth doing. The boots will break in on their own though. Heat molding is very usefull if you have a hard time with a good fit, or if your feet are slightly different sizes (don't laugh, most people's are). If the boot fitter trys to sell you a custom footbed (like Superfeet), he is not trying to upsell you; he actually really knows what he is talking about! Superfeet are almost an orthodic. It keeps your foot in it's natural position and aligned with the spine. Long story short: better fitting boots, less sore feet.
Ok, congrats on your new kicks! Even if you had them heat molded it's still a good idea to wear them around the house for an hour or two before getting on the hill. I like to have them as broken in as possible before riding and before my bindings start bending them even more. Hope this helps, and be sure to take them out of the bag to air out and dry when you get home!
Lastly, if you have a board too; make sure to adjust your new boots to your bindings; it sucks having to do it in the parking lot at 7am in 20 degree weather while your friends are trying to call first chair!
Firstly, one should always try on boots before buying, NO MATTER WHAT. The two main factors to consider are size and flex. Beyond that, pick what fits the best, and then, graphics. Most major boots companies have a different fit and feel to them, so trying a few should give you a good idea what brand will work best for you.
In very general terms, an entry level boot might run you between $100 and $150. For a good, mid range quality boot, $150 to $220 should get you something you'll be stoked on. Most people who snowboard regularly spend in this range. Getting over $250 usually gets you the top of the line, depending on the company. This means the newest technology, maybe ultralight, maybe a high end liner, better padding options, the works. If you have this kind of money to blow, try on a $120 boot, then try a $250 one. I'm guessing you'll see where the money is going!
Softer boots are great for beginners, as they tend to be pretty comfortable and are forgiving, and usually are less expensive than a really stiff boot. The park (box and rail) guys also like softer boots so they can 'tweak out' their tricks better; do them with some style.
Stiffer boots take longer to break in and are less forgiving, but tend to last longer because of the extra materials used to stiffen up the boot. These boots tend to have higher end features than softer ones, mostly because at this level of boot, the rider is usually an experienced, faster rider, and willing to pay more for their gear. Stiffer boots make turning much easier as it takes pressure off your ankles, and also give you support for going fast, and through choppy snow. Also, they give great support on the takeoff and landing of larger (40ft+ jumps).
Still not sure? Ask the shop kid to try on the mid flexing boots, that's the majority of what's out there, and suits most people well. Ok, so now you know what kind of boots you want, stiff or soft or in the middle, how the hell should they fit? First, bring your snowboard socks with you to try stuff on; thickness makes a BIG difference. A good, mid weight sock should do the trick; today's boots are waterproof and warm enough for that. Please tell me you have snow socks and aren't wearing cotton! Cotton will give you cold, wet feet, and maybe even blisters! Stick with wool or acrylic. Wearing more sock just makes the boots fit worse these days. A brand new boot should be snug all over, but not tight or pinching. When you first slide your foot in, the big toe should just touch the front of the boot. Too tight? Not yet. Lace up the liner and the shell. Now stand on that foot, and with all your weight on that leg, squat, bending your knee over your toes. You should feel your heel sinking into all that padding around your ankle, and your big toe should pull back from the front so it either is just lightly brushing, or just not quite touching. 2 reasons for this. One, as your ankle breaks in and molds around that back padding, your entire foot will sink towards the back of the boot, an eigth to a quarter of an inch, depending on the boot. Secondly, you want to wear snowboard boots a little smaller than street shoes because the bindings hold your foot back and in place. Street shoes have some play for feet to slip a little and not hit the front. The rest of the foot should feel snug as well. Companies put extra padding all around the foot for a proper fit. Until your foot forms around this foam, it will feel snug. If you buy loose fitting boots, when they break in, they are going to be too loose! Lastly, your heel should stay pretty tucked in and not lift up when you walk. If you have a narrow ankle, this is important to keep in mind. Some higher end boots have extra pads that can be put in for narrow ankles. Women, look at womens' boots. They are not just cuter! Women's boots are narrower in the heel and have higher arches to accomodate a woman's foot. Also, the top cuff is usually lower and wider, as the female calf is lower than a man's.
Since these boots do form to your feet, once you try them on, leave them on for a while. This is especially important with a stiffer boot. Walking around the shop for 10 minutes, many boots that feel tight will start to loosen up. I'll put a different boot on each foot, and wander around until one is bothering me, then move on to another. Conversely, a boot that initially feels great might not be shaped right for your foot and you might start to feel some cramping. This is where a shop with someone who knows a little about boot fitting is important, because they should be able to troubleshoot little problems.
Customization: Many boots can be heat molded, which is heating up the liner and putting your foot in, shaping the foam around your foot. Some shops charge, some charge a lot, some don't. I ride 30+ days a year and think this is absolutely worth doing. The boots will break in on their own though. Heat molding is very usefull if you have a hard time with a good fit, or if your feet are slightly different sizes (don't laugh, most people's are). If the boot fitter trys to sell you a custom footbed (like Superfeet), he is not trying to upsell you; he actually really knows what he is talking about! Superfeet are almost an orthodic. It keeps your foot in it's natural position and aligned with the spine. Long story short: better fitting boots, less sore feet.
Ok, congrats on your new kicks! Even if you had them heat molded it's still a good idea to wear them around the house for an hour or two before getting on the hill. I like to have them as broken in as possible before riding and before my bindings start bending them even more. Hope this helps, and be sure to take them out of the bag to air out and dry when you get home!
Lastly, if you have a board too; make sure to adjust your new boots to your bindings; it sucks having to do it in the parking lot at 7am in 20 degree weather while your friends are trying to call first chair!
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